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Dave Groen



Joined: Thu Apr 5th, 2012
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I had my D800 with 24-70 f2.8 mounted on my Bogen tripod via its quick-release plate. I was walking along with the assembly on my shoulder, camera behind my head and the tripod legs pointing forward, holding the tripod legs by their feet like a big long expensive rifle.

The Bogen quick-release lever caught on my shirt collar and did its job - releasing. The quick-release is the black lever at the upper right of the image below

The camera fell to the sidewalk and landed on the lens shade, which immediately gave way. The camera then continued its plunge, hitting the sidewalk on the lens filter threads and breaking off a section of this fine plastic structure. The glass is unscathed.

The focusing is OK. The zoom is a little stiff. I retook some images that I had taken before the crash. Image quality is still very good at f8 (what I used for the previous images). It's not so good at f2.8.

I guess it's going to pay a visit to Nikon repair. Repair cost will probably be slightly less than buying a new lens, if my bad luck continues.

Attachment: images.jpg (Downloaded 90 times)

ArcticRick



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I would have vommited in anger and shock

Doug

 

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To the best of my recollection there is a secondary locking mechanism (brass) on the underside of that black lever to avoid this kind of mishap:needsahug:

Robert



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Oh dear, bad luck Dave, :needsahug: I will stop cursing the auto secondary lock on my Manfrotto Q/R's. I was thinking of disabling it.

Insurance?

jk



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Oho dear a sickening moment.
I hope the repair cost isnt too bad but it will cost!

Ed Matusik



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Really rotten luck.  I've had a few bad experiences carrying cameras mounted on tripods too. Also shipping camera bodies with a long lens still attached (DON"T DO IT - EVER). - EdM

rmoser

 

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One reason that almost all of my heads no longer have quick releases; they all (save one) have screw type releases. The only one with a quick release is my RRS monopod head on my Gitzo carbon fibre monopod since I usually leave the camera strap around my neck when using a monopod. That said, the RRS release lever doesn't stick out so I've never actually had a problem with it.

My condolences! Horrible thing to happen...

Rob

Gilbert Sandberg

 

Joined: Tue Apr 17th, 2012
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Dave,
 I own a Manfrotto ballhead (simliar to the one in your picture), but I have never been tempted to sling one over any shoulder. I would rather carry/tranport it on a trolly or a (sturdy) car. From an insurance angle I would call this user error, sorry. Regards, Gilbert

PS for all other readers: the only drawback for this ballhead is that one has to release the six-sided plate from the ballhead to disconnect the camera, so the release-mechanism is being used all the time.

Squarerigger



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I can feel your pain Dave. Hopefully, the repair will be less expensive than anticipated. Did the D800 suffer any in the fall?

Anyway, best wishes.

:'(

TomOC



Joined: Thu Apr 12th, 2012
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Dave-

What a miserable day you had. From your tone, I think the repair will be less than you feared (most things are not as bad as feared or as good as expected :-)

LIke Rob, I switched to RRS because of a few accidents (without your horrible result) with Manfrotto easy release (I did like the gun head for a while :-)

Good luck

Tom

Dave Groen



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Doug wrote: To the best of my recollection there is a secondary locking mechanism (brass) on the underside of that black lever to avoid this kind of mishap:needsahug: The brass mechanism locks the lever in the open position. While verifying this yesterday, I noticed a black plastic thingie on the underside of the head well camouflaged against the black structure. This newly-discovered object locks the lever in the closed position. I wish I would have known this earlier. I bought the tripod head used with no manual, if that's any excuse.

The lens hit the edge of a sidewalk and then tipped such that the camera body hit soft grass. The shock forces on the lens were still transmitted through the lens mount to the camera body, though. The D800 survived unharmed. I swapped lenses and took some classic brick wall photos wide-open. Focus is consistent across the field, so the lens mount is still parallel to the sensor.

No insurance. I am (usually) very careful with my gear so this is the first mishap I have had in almost 40 years of photography. Insurance premiums saved will far outweigh what I will pay for repairs.

P.S. This is an iPhone photo. No critique, please.

Attachment: BrokenLens.JPG (Downloaded 62 times)

jk



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Dave, I think that lens flange can be glued back into place and all will be OK.
The plastic used is ABS (I guess) which does not glue very well with superglue or other common glues.  If anyone knows of a glue that works then I'd love to know it.


The alternative will be a send back of the 24-70 to Nikon for repair which should not be too expensive job as it will not require a lens strip down.  See attached screen shot from Nikon 24-70 f2.8 AFS G repair manual from that lens.    The replacement part you need is   filter ring - part number IK631-858 .   
Nikon probably wont supply directly to you but a Nikon repair centre might sell you one. ;-)


If you want a lens manual that shows the full info then PM or email me.

Attachment: Screen shot 2012-09-10 at 20.11.05.jpg (Downloaded 60 times)

Peter_LO

 

Joined: Mon Apr 23rd, 2012
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Dave, I think the rubberized version of super glue, such as Aron Alpha's 400 series should work well although it would left some white residue. If you don't mind the appearance, you may even apply some epoxy after gluing the crack for added strength.

jk



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As Peter says Aron Alpha's 400 series is a cyanoacrylate glue and it may work but leave a white residue. This can be coloured with a permanent black marker pen.

I had to glue one of my hoods for my 18-70 lens as I couldnt get a replacement hood (managed to get one now from HK).
What I found was that the bond was OK but not as strong as normal (other materials) when used on ABS.

Dave Groen



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I found some earlier test shots I did with this lens at f2.8 and recreated them. The preferred result would be that there is no difference between now and then, but of course my life can't be that easy.

At 24mm it's now very good,  sharper than before, although I think there may be some motion blur in the "before" shot.
At 70mm it's definitely worse than before. At f8 it gets much better, better than the 70mm f2.8 "before" shot. But it's an f2/.8 lens and I should be able to use it there...

jk



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Dave Groen wrote: I found some earlier test shots I did with this lens at f2.8 and recreated them. The preferred result would be that there is no difference between now and then, but of course my life can't be that easy.

At 24mm it's now very good,  sharper than before, although I think there may be some motion blur in the "before" shot.
At 70mm it's definitely worse than before. At f8 it gets much better, better than the 70mm f2.8 "before" shot. But it's an f2/.8 lens and I should be able to use it there...
I think you need to send it back to Nikon for a check up!

Constable



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Look on the bright side ... You may have found a solution to the left focus issue!

My commiserations ... Hope it won't be too expensive

Ed

Constable



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EvoStik PVC Pipe Weld is meant to be OK for ABS

Ed

jk



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Constable wrote:
EvoStik PVC Pipe Weld is meant to be OK for ABS

Ed
Thanks Ed. I'll see if I can find some in the DIY shops here.

Robert



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jk wrote:
Constable wrote:
EvoStik PVC Pipe Weld is meant to be OK for ABS

Ed
Thanks Ed. I'll see if I can find some in the DIY shops here.

Try a plumbers merchants? If it's what I use it melts the surface of the plastic and causes the two surfaces to melt together. Would need to be sparing with the application, perhaps mask areas not to be glued?

jk



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Have some in my workshop, thanks Robert.
In the past I have tried Revel glue which is for sticking model aeroplanes but that didnt seem to work very well.

The PVC Pipe Weld might work better as it different formulation.

Robert



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Given the Revel glue is liable, or probably to be used by children I guess the solvents will be different at least... They nearly blow my head off!

How anybody can intentionally inhale that stuff makes me wonder for their sanity.

jk



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Robert wrote: Given the Revel glue is liable, or probably to be used by children I guess the solvents will be different at least... They nearly blow my head off!

How anybody can intentionally inhale that stuff makes me wonder for their sanity.

I agree. 
I remember we used to use some very smelly chemicals in the lab and some people used to love the smell of some of them.  

Ray Ninness

 

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Dave I fell your pain, and I still use those style ball heads with the hexigon plates, but I never carry a tripod/camera combo anywhere!! The locks can be disabled?? When I'm in a hurry they always seem to get in the way..

The only time I carry a lens/camera combination is on a monopod, and I always wrap the shoulder strap for the lens around my wrist when doing that!!! I usually do it with the 500 f4 or the 200/400f4, big beasts, but they have substantial shoulder straps on them too.. You never can be too safe!!

I take it the camera suffered no damage???

:-O

 

Dave Groen



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Ray Ninness wrote: Dave I fell your pain, and I still use those style ball heads with the hexigon plates, but I never carry a tripod/camera combo anywhere!! The locks can be disabled?? When I'm in a hurry they always seem to get in the way..

The only time I carry a lens/camera combination is on a monopod, and I always wrap the shoulder strap for the lens around my wrist when doing that!!! I usually do it with the 500 f4 or the 200/400f4, big beasts, but they have substantial shoulder straps on them too.. You never can be too safe!!

I take it the camera suffered no damage???

 
From now in I'll have multiple straps looped around my neck and waist, and toss pillows on the ground all around me just in case the straps fail.

Yes, the D800 was undamaged. I sent the lens back to Nikon Wednesday.

Robert



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Dave Groen wrote:

From now in I'll have multiple straps looped around my neck and waist, and toss pillows on the ground all around me just in case the straps fail.

Straps DO fail.

I was carrying three Mac mini's, my main RAID HD and my Archive HD in a holdall, just about to go downstairs, when the strap of the holdall gave way and the bag dropped like a stone onto the top step.

I have some foam in the bottom of the bag and each computer was wrapped with a towel, but it still landed with a thump from about three feet.

It was with some trepidation that I started the computers up, everything was OK but it could have been a different story.

The strap gave no warning, I hadn't noticed any fraying, I have done the same thing a dozen times before? Just one more of those things I guess.

Dave Groen



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Nikon received and checked my lens. Their diagnosis:

IMPACT DAMAGE FILTER RING BROKEN
I knew that.

BULGE ON INNER ZOOM
I didn't know that - probably why zoom action was stiff around 50mm

FOCUS ADJUST ALIGNMENT-NOT SHARP*FOCUS OFF@70M
I knew that too - that's why I sent it in.

Repair cost $692
Tax $29
Shipping $12
Total $733 :doh:

A new one costs $1900. I guess I could look at it as getting a used lens for $733.

jk



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A repaired lens will be as good as new!
I'd just get it repaired as a good second hand unit will cost $1000.

Ray Ninness

 

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Dave Groen wrote: Nikon received and checked my lens. Their diagnosis:

IMPACT DAMAGE FILTER RING BROKEN
I knew that.

BULGE ON INNER ZOOM
I didn't know that - probably why zoom action was stiff around 50mm

FOCUS ADJUST ALIGNMENT-NOT SHARP*FOCUS OFF@70M
I knew that too - that's why I sent it in.

Repair cost $692
Tax $29
Shipping $12
Total $733 :doh:

A new one costs $1900. I guess I could look at it as getting a used lens for $733.
Ouch!!! But still cheaper then a full replacement would cost!! Give it a good going over and testing when it returns and see if it puts a smile back on you face!!

I hope it does???

:thumbsup:

jk



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Yes indeed Ray that is probably the best way forward.


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