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| Posted by Dave Groen: Sat Sep 8th, 2012 22:28 | 1st Post |
| I had my D800 with 24-70 f2.8 mounted on my Bogen tripod via its quick-release plate. I was walking along with the assembly on my shoulder, camera behind my head and the tripod legs pointing forward, holding the tripod legs by their feet like a big long expensive rifle. The Bogen quick-release lever caught on my shirt collar and did its job - releasing. The quick-release is the black lever at the upper right of the image below The camera fell to the sidewalk and landed on the lens shade, which immediately gave way. The camera then continued its plunge, hitting the sidewalk on the lens filter threads and breaking off a section of this fine plastic structure. The glass is unscathed. The focusing is OK. The zoom is a little stiff. I retook some images that I had taken before the crash. Image quality is still very good at f8 (what I used for the previous images). It's not so good at f2.8. I guess it's going to pay a visit to Nikon repair. Repair cost will probably be slightly less than buying a new lens, if my bad luck continues. Attachment: images.jpg (Downloaded 90 times)
____________________ I started out with nothing and still have most of it left |
| Posted by ArcticRick: Sat Sep 8th, 2012 23:35 | 2nd Post |
| I would have vommited in anger and shock
____________________ Writer/Gear Reviewer @http://www.theloadoutroom.com |
| Posted by Doug: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 01:08 | 3rd Post |
To the best of my recollection there is a secondary locking mechanism (brass) on the underside of that black lever to avoid this kind of mishap
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| Posted by Robert: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 02:34 | 4th Post |
| Oh dear, bad luck Dave, I will stop cursing the auto secondary lock on my Manfrotto Q/R's. I was thinking of disabling it. Insurance?
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by jk: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 03:01 | 5th Post |
| Oho dear a sickening moment. I hope the repair cost isnt too bad but it will cost!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Ed Matusik: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 06:26 | 6th Post |
| Really rotten luck. I've had a few bad experiences carrying cameras mounted on tripods too. Also shipping camera bodies with a long lens still attached (DON"T DO IT - EVER). - EdM
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| Posted by rmoser: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 09:31 | 7th Post |
| One reason that almost all of my heads no longer have quick releases; they all (save one) have screw type releases. The only one with a quick release is my RRS monopod head on my Gitzo carbon fibre monopod since I usually leave the camera strap around my neck when using a monopod. That said, the RRS release lever doesn't stick out so I've never actually had a problem with it. My condolences! Horrible thing to happen... Rob
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| Posted by Gilbert Sandberg: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 09:41 | 8th Post |
| Dave, I own a Manfrotto ballhead (simliar to the one in your picture), but I have never been tempted to sling one over any shoulder. I would rather carry/tranport it on a trolly or a (sturdy) car. From an insurance angle I would call this user error, sorry. Regards, Gilbert PS for all other readers: the only drawback for this ballhead is that one has to release the six-sided plate from the ballhead to disconnect the camera, so the release-mechanism is being used all the time.
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| Posted by Squarerigger: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 12:22 | 9th Post |
| I can feel your pain Dave. Hopefully, the repair will be less expensive than anticipated. Did the D800 suffer any in the fall? Anyway, best wishes. 
____________________ -------------------------------------------- Gary |
| Posted by TomOC: Sun Sep 9th, 2012 16:16 | 10th Post |
| Dave- What a miserable day you had. From your tone, I think the repair will be less than you feared (most things are not as bad as feared or as good as expected  LIke Rob, I switched to RRS because of a few accidents (without your horrible result) with Manfrotto easy release (I did like the gun head for a while Good luck Tom
____________________ Tom O'Connell -Lots of people talk to animals.... Not very many listen, though.... That's the problem. Benjamin Hoff, The Tao of Pooh |
| Posted by Dave Groen: Mon Sep 10th, 2012 11:13 | 11th Post |
Doug wrote: To the best of my recollection there is a secondary locking mechanism (brass) on the underside of that black lever to avoid this kind of mishapThe brass mechanism locks the lever in the open position. While verifying this yesterday, I noticed a black plastic thingie on the underside of the head well camouflaged against the black structure. This newly-discovered object locks the lever in the closed position. I wish I would have known this earlier. I bought the tripod head used with no manual, if that's any excuse. The lens hit the edge of a sidewalk and then tipped such that the camera body hit soft grass. The shock forces on the lens were still transmitted through the lens mount to the camera body, though. The D800 survived unharmed. I swapped lenses and took some classic brick wall photos wide-open. Focus is consistent across the field, so the lens mount is still parallel to the sensor. No insurance. I am (usually) very careful with my gear so this is the first mishap I have had in almost 40 years of photography. Insurance premiums saved will far outweigh what I will pay for repairs. P.S. This is an iPhone photo. No critique, please. Attachment: BrokenLens.JPG (Downloaded 62 times)
____________________ I started out with nothing and still have most of it left |
| Posted by jk: Mon Sep 10th, 2012 14:08 | 12th Post |
| Dave, I think that lens flange can be glued back into place and all will be OK. The plastic used is ABS (I guess) which does not glue very well with superglue or other common glues. If anyone knows of a glue that works then I'd love to know it. The alternative will be a send back of the 24-70 to Nikon for repair which should not be too expensive job as it will not require a lens strip down. See attached screen shot from Nikon 24-70 f2.8 AFS G repair manual from that lens. The replacement part you need is filter ring - part number IK631-858 . Nikon probably wont supply directly to you but a Nikon repair centre might sell you one.  If you want a lens manual that shows the full info then PM or email me. Attachment: Screen shot 2012-09-10 at 20.11.05.jpg (Downloaded 60 times)
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Peter_LO: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 04:30 | 13th Post |
| Dave, I think the rubberized version of super glue, such as Aron Alpha's 400 series should work well although it would left some white residue. If you don't mind the appearance, you may even apply some epoxy after gluing the crack for added strength.
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| Posted by jk: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 06:23 | 14th Post |
| As Peter says Aron Alpha's 400 series is a cyanoacrylate glue and it may work but leave a white residue. This can be coloured with a permanent black marker pen. I had to glue one of my hoods for my 18-70 lens as I couldnt get a replacement hood (managed to get one now from HK). What I found was that the bond was OK but not as strong as normal (other materials) when used on ABS.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Dave Groen: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 09:28 | 15th Post |
| I found some earlier test shots I did with this lens at f2.8 and recreated them. The preferred result would be that there is no difference between now and then, but of course my life can't be that easy. At 24mm it's now very good, sharper than before, although I think there may be some motion blur in the "before" shot. At 70mm it's definitely worse than before. At f8 it gets much better, better than the 70mm f2.8 "before" shot. But it's an f2/.8 lens and I should be able to use it there...
____________________ I started out with nothing and still have most of it left |
| Posted by jk: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 12:07 | 16th Post |
Dave Groen wrote: I found some earlier test shots I did with this lens at f2.8 and recreated them. The preferred result would be that there is no difference between now and then, but of course my life can't be that easy.I think you need to send it back to Nikon for a check up!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Constable: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 14:24 | 17th Post |
| Look on the bright side ... You may have found a solution to the left focus issue! My commiserations ... Hope it won't be too expensive Ed
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| Posted by Constable: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 14:26 | 18th Post |
| EvoStik PVC Pipe Weld is meant to be OK for ABS Ed
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| Posted by jk: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 17:56 | 19th Post |
Constable wrote:EvoStik PVC Pipe Weld is meant to be OK for ABSThanks Ed. I'll see if I can find some in the DIY shops here.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Robert: Wed Sep 12th, 2012 02:07 | 20th Post |
jk wrote:Constable wrote: Try a plumbers merchants? If it's what I use it melts the surface of the plastic and causes the two surfaces to melt together. Would need to be sparing with the application, perhaps mask areas not to be glued?
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by jk: Wed Sep 12th, 2012 06:12 | 21st Post |
| Have some in my workshop, thanks Robert. In the past I have tried Revel glue which is for sticking model aeroplanes but that didnt seem to work very well. The PVC Pipe Weld might work better as it different formulation.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Robert: Wed Sep 12th, 2012 06:30 | 22nd Post |
| Given the Revel glue is liable, or probably to be used by children I guess the solvents will be different at least... They nearly blow my head off! How anybody can intentionally inhale that stuff makes me wonder for their sanity.
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by jk: Wed Sep 12th, 2012 06:35 | 23rd Post |
Robert wrote: Given the Revel glue is liable, or probably to be used by children I guess the solvents will be different at least... They nearly blow my head off! I agree. I remember we used to use some very smelly chemicals in the lab and some people used to love the smell of some of them.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Ray Ninness: Thu Sep 13th, 2012 19:14 | 24th Post |
| Dave I fell your pain, and I still use those style ball heads with the hexigon plates, but I never carry a tripod/camera combo anywhere!! The locks can be disabled?? When I'm in a hurry they always seem to get in the way.. The only time I carry a lens/camera combination is on a monopod, and I always wrap the shoulder strap for the lens around my wrist when doing that!!! I usually do it with the 500 f4 or the 200/400f4, big beasts, but they have substantial shoulder straps on them too.. You never can be too safe!! I take it the camera suffered no damage??? :-O
____________________ Ray Ninness F8Photos.com Bedford, New Hampshire USA |
| Posted by Dave Groen: Fri Sep 14th, 2012 10:19 | 25th Post |
Ray Ninness wrote: Dave I fell your pain, and I still use those style ball heads with the hexigon plates, but I never carry a tripod/camera combo anywhere!! The locks can be disabled?? When I'm in a hurry they always seem to get in the way..From now in I'll have multiple straps looped around my neck and waist, and toss pillows on the ground all around me just in case the straps fail. Yes, the D800 was undamaged. I sent the lens back to Nikon Wednesday.
____________________ I started out with nothing and still have most of it left |
| Posted by Robert: Fri Sep 14th, 2012 11:49 | 26th Post |
Dave Groen wrote:
Straps DO fail. I was carrying three Mac mini's, my main RAID HD and my Archive HD in a holdall, just about to go downstairs, when the strap of the holdall gave way and the bag dropped like a stone onto the top step. I have some foam in the bottom of the bag and each computer was wrapped with a towel, but it still landed with a thump from about three feet. It was with some trepidation that I started the computers up, everything was OK but it could have been a different story. The strap gave no warning, I hadn't noticed any fraying, I have done the same thing a dozen times before? Just one more of those things I guess.
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by Dave Groen: Tue Sep 18th, 2012 11:04 | 27th Post |
| Nikon received and checked my lens. Their diagnosis: IMPACT DAMAGE FILTER RING BROKEN I knew that. BULGE ON INNER ZOOM I didn't know that - probably why zoom action was stiff around 50mm FOCUS ADJUST ALIGNMENT-NOT SHARP*FOCUS OFF@70M I knew that too - that's why I sent it in. Repair cost $692 Tax $29 Shipping $12 Total $733  A new one costs $1900. I guess I could look at it as getting a used lens for $733.
____________________ I started out with nothing and still have most of it left |
| Posted by jk: Wed Sep 19th, 2012 09:12 | 28th Post |
| A repaired lens will be as good as new! I'd just get it repaired as a good second hand unit will cost $1000.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Ray Ninness: Sun Sep 23rd, 2012 11:12 | 29th Post |
Dave Groen wrote: Nikon received and checked my lens. Their diagnosis:Ouch!!! But still cheaper then a full replacement would cost!! Give it a good going over and testing when it returns and see if it puts a smile back on you face!! I hope it does??? :thumbsup:
____________________ Ray Ninness F8Photos.com Bedford, New Hampshire USA |
| Posted by jk: Sun Sep 23rd, 2012 18:43 | 30th Post |
| Yes indeed Ray that is probably the best way forward.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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