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Moderated by: chrisbet, |
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TomOC
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Check this out... http://photographylife.com/product/sensor-gel-stick There is a video on PP that shows it being used as one of the last steps in the assembly of a Leica M9. I think I'll get one and see if it works...on my D40 for starters... What do you think? Am I nuts? |
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Eric
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TomOC wrote:Check this out... I liked the quick pop up warning for D600 owners..'removes dust but not oil' I might try one as I have a stubborn spec or two on the D3 and the swabs are very expensive when you have to keep reswabbing. My only concern, which is arguably the same with swabs, getting right up to the edges of the sensor. Never sure if the edge of the capture area is narrower than the sensor area to enable an edge that doesnt show? |
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Robert
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I seem to remember there was a similar device some years ago, Pec Pen? which had a sticky tip for removing stubborn bunnies, I think it came with a magnifier which fitted the lens mount. Why not measure the size of the low pass filter Eric, the actual capture size is specified for each camera. If you cut two strips of clean paper the exact width and height specified and use them to compare with the size of the frame aperture around the LPF that should tell you how much over size it is, if at all, or even use an old slide or negative trimmed to size? My expectation would be that the LPF aperture will be slightly bigger than the capture size, although depending on size of the rear element of the lens and it's distance from the sensor, the demand for the LPF frame aperture size will vary, the light rays approach the sensor in the form of a cone, just like the cone (pyramid?) of light from a projector lens to a cinema screen. So the smaller and closer the rear element is the the sensor the more unused margin there will be at the edges of the frame of the LPF. Remember the LPF frame is some distance, maybe four or five mm? from the focal plane, that is the sensor. |
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amazing50
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Thanks for the link, the whole site is interesting. |
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TomOC
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Eric wrote:TomOC wrote: The edge issue is the first thing that came to mind for me as well. If you look at the enlarged images of the "cleaned" sensor, they show a completely spotless edge to edge sensor. THAT scared me a little. As I'm sure you have, I've getting pretty good at painfully cleaning sensors over the years but almost never do I get one quite that clean...ever! So they are either BSing us or the thing is a miracle. My guess is that they tested at a fairly wide open aperture...which is fine but they should say so. I've ordered one and will test on the old D40 (hell, I've practically spit on the damn thing to clean it from time to time this can't be that bad... |
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jk
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Good luck Tom. Certainly wont be testing on any of my new Nikons or Fujis. |
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Eric
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Surely it can be tried on a screw in filter first? They get dust specs too...and working on a surface not buried inside a camera will make it easier and safer to assess first. |
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TomOC
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Good idea, Eric. But to really see what's up, you have to stop down and shoot a blue sky and then blow up the image and add some contrast, no? |
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Eric
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I stop down to f16, shoot one of the bare walls in my office wall (cream) and open the file in PS. Sometimes hitting >Equalise will show up irregularities even more. |
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amazing50
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I just tried one of those gummy electrode pads that are used with skin stimulator (tens) machines on a filter. It cleaned off the dust and left it smug free. My D600 sensor hasn't needed a cleaning in a year so I'll have to wait. |
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jk
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amazing50 wrote: I just tried one of those gummy electrode pads that are used with skin stimulator (tens) machines on a filter. It cleaned off the dust and left it smug free. That is good news that it works well. Is it the same product that Tom pointed to or a different one?. Do you have a url to the product if it is different. BTW: How many shots have you taken with your D600 ? Is it more than 4000 which is meant to be the magic point where the oil/dust spots stop? My one still has the odd dust spot but this may be the dust/oil problem or just me changing the lens. The dust spots are not localised to a corner or side of the sensor. |
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amazing50
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jk wrote: amazing50 wrote:I just tried one of those gummy electrode pads that are used with skin stimulator (tens) machines on a filter. It cleaned off the dust and left it smug free. I've taken around 2000 shots, don't know how to get the grand total as I reset the count after initial tryouts. There is still over a year on the warenty and it looks like at least one trip to Europe this spring which will add quite a bit to the count. The gummy pad I tried is to hold an electrode pad to the skin. A tens unit administers electrical stimulation (shocks) to the area for pain relief etc. I have no idea if it is the same material as they used in the cleaner, was just curious to see if a gummy pad would smuge the filter . Would consider the product if it became necessary, wouldn't risk an expensive repair on an electrode pad and it would require some type of handle etc. Search "tens machine" on eBay for an assortment of the pads and machines. |
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jk
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Take a jpeg image upload to your computer and go to this site. http://www.myshuttercount.com You will be asked to upload to this site and can see how many total actuations your camera has not how many pictures you have taken. There is a program called PhotoMe that you can download that also shows the Shutter Count near the bottom of the image Exif data. Program runs on Windows. N.B. The image must be a JPG. |
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amazing50
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jk wrote: Thanks PhotoMe is a neet free download that realy shows a lot of EXIF data. |
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blackfox
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i just use a brillo pad and a bit of fairy liquid for lubricant ,our lass uses it on her stainless steel pots and it works a treat. anything really stubborn though it just goes in the dishwasher with the mobile phones and spare spectacles LOL |
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Eric
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blackfox wrote:i just use a brillo pad and a bit of fairy liquid for lubricant ,our lass uses it on her stainless steel pots and it works treat LOL Funny you should say that. I've been 'scrubbing' the car windscreen with a cerium oxide paste to try to remove some light scratches, that I previously caused ( but that's another story). I was rubbing like a mad beast for 20mins, pulled several muscles but managed to improve the marks ....a bit! Maybe I should get the Brillo pads out. |
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TomOC
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Moose weighs in on the gel method ... And others http://www.moosepeterson.com/blog/2014/02/18/can-we-talk-sensor-cleaning/ |
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jk
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Agree with the Moose. Whatever gets it clean for you. I have my own method. See my website for details. http://www.jmknights.com/photography/downloads/files/Nikon_CCD_Cleaning_Process.doc http://www.jmknights.com/photography/downloads/files/Fuji_Sensor_Cleaning.pdf Worked for all my various DSLRs in the last 14 years! Goodness it is getting to be a long time. |
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A small amount of member data is captured and held in an attempt to reduce spammers and to manage users. This site also uses cookies to ensure ease of use. In order to comply with new DPR regulations you are required to agree/disagree with this process. If you do not agree then please email the Admins using info@nikondsl.uk Thank you. |