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| Moderated by: chrisbet, | ||
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chrisbet
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Well I am off into FX land  .Managed to pick up a D610 for £400, I have been watching prices for a while and the lowest I have seen until now was £420 so fairly chuffed. The main issue is that you are up against dealers trying to snap up stock but sniping at the last instant is the only way to grab the bargain - this time I got my winning bid in by just one second before a dealer. Had it been the other way round I would have lost the auction even with the same bid! So now I will list my D90 & DX lenses, etc. and recoup some of the cost - most of my lenses are FX compatible, fortunately  |
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Robert
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Well done, you will find a big difference. I have only used the D600 briefly but it's a very capable camera, at that price it seems a bargain. I got bored with sniping, I just look for well priced BiN items from sellers with low feedback. Apart from the Sigma 10-20, which is a wonderful lens on DX, and the 18-105 which is handy for snaps on the D3300 and my undamaged copy which I use for IR, I have made a point of only getting FX compatible lenses. Mainly old film era lenses. |
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jk
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Well done Chris. The D600 I have is very fine and didnt suffer from the oil spoils from the shutter. I still use. The D610 is similar but has one or two refinements. I think you will like the camera as the AF is quite fast but not as fast as the D850/D800. Enjoy the FX in low light as it works much better than D90/D80. I use AuctionSniper for eBay bidded auctions, set it with a 2 secs before close with what I think is what I want to pay. I can introduce you or you can say I recommended you and you get 3 or 5 free bids. Just use my email address from my profile. |
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chrisbet
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The 70-300 f4.5-5.6G with VR is my favourite, if a little heavy, I also have a 50mm 1.8D prime and a 35-80 f4-5.6Dfrom my film camera. I was a little disappointed with the 28-70 f3.5-4.5 "macro" so that is back up for sale. I will probably look for a wide angle lens - any suggestions? |
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chrisbet
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jk wrote:I use AuctionSniper for eBay bidded auctions, set it with a 2 secs before close with what I think is what I want to pay.Lol - I have been using Auctionsniper for 20+ years - I used to buy MG engines at ridiculously low prices and relied on any other interested parties not having the time to jack up the price  |
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Eric
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chrisbet wrote:The 70-300 f4.5-5.6G with VR is my favourite, if a little heavy, I also have a 50mm 1.8D prime and a 35-80 f4-5.6Dfrom my film camera.The AF-S 18-35mm f3.5-4.5G ED is a very competent performer, despite being almost 1/3 of the price of the 'pro' version (17-35). I used one before I foolishly decided to 'go pro'. It took 3 rejections before I got a 17-35 that was (marginally) better than the 18-35. I sold my 18-35 to a friend (he's still got it after 25years!). If I hadn't burnt my bridges I would have stuck with it. But having got rid of all my Nikon gear when I went to Fuji, and now full circle back with Nikon....I have another 18-35.  If you don't want to go new, I am sure you will find preowned at even better prices. |
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chrishamer
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chrisbet wrote:The 70-300 f4.5-5.6G with VR is my favourite, if a little heavy, I also have a 50mm 1.8D prime and a 35-80 f4-5.6Dfrom my film camera. I really love my 16-35 F4 but they seem to have held their value pretty well. I agree with Eric on the 18-35 being excellent and better value too. |
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jk
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I use my 17-35 F2.8 AFS on all my cameras including the Z7. It is a very good lens and frequently it is wide enough to mean that I dont need to use the 14-24 f2.8 AFS. |
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chrisbet
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It turned up today and it looks immaculate, shutter count is 32k. It is a bit bigger and heavier than the D90 but I am sure I'll get used to it. A couple of test pics shows I need to get to know it - they seemed to come out much brighter than the D90 - need to play with the exposure!   |
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jk
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Check what metering mode you are in Chris. Different metering modes make for big changes in my experience. I like Matrix metering but some prefer centre-weighted. |
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Robert
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Have you done a two button reset? Two buttons will have green dots next to them, hold down the two buttons for a few seconds and the screen should ask if you want to reset the camera to factory settings... It's a good starting place. There are still some settings on some cameras which persist even after a reset but the important and some obscure settings are 'zeroed'. With some bodies permanent exposure compensation of plus or minus 1/3 of a stop isn't unusual. Keep a close eye on the histogram until you get used to the camera, even then keep an eye on it, that's your best guide. Our eyes are easily misled because they compensate for bright or dull light, we sometimes don't realise how bright or dull it really is, the sensor isn't that smart! |
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chrishamer
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Robert wrote:Have you done a two button reset? Definitely agree on doing a two-button reset - also make sure it's running the latest firmware too. I'd say that my D600 tended to overexpose too, probably by around 1/3 of a stop. I pretty much always shot at -1/3 unless I was shooting manual |
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chrisbet
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Yes - I did the reset and also cleared out some other user set items it doesn't cover. It is on the latest firmware too. I have read that it tended to overexpose so I'll have to see what correction it needs. |
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GeoffR
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I almost always set -2/3 stop exposure correction (As opposed to compensation, the former doesn't show in the finder) |
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chrisbet
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A few from today - experimenting with exposure and fill in flash to get the results I am looking for - D610 & 28-70mm f3.5-4.5   |
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Robert
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Love two, three would be nice but for the stick... The first one lacks sharpness, maybe movement, or focus? The bee and stamens should be really sharp in my opinion. Wind is usually the biggest enemy of flower photography. It can be dead calm, by the time I have set up my tripod and focused on the flower a breeze suddenly develops, it come from nowhere, the moment I reach for the shutter release! |
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chrisbet
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Possibly some movement in 1 - I was after the hover fly and it kept moving! Sorry about the stick in 3 - I'll chop it off next time  I am pleased with 2, I stopped the lens down to get DOF and used flash to get the exposure - the shadows really throw the flowers into 3D |
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chrisbet
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Technical question - the menu of the D610 offers the choice of 11 or 39 focus points - in what circumstances would I want to use each of these settings? |
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Eric
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chrisbet wrote:Technical question - the menu of the D610 offers the choice of 11 or 39 focus points - in what circumstances would I want to use each of these settings?I’ve always assumed the more focus points the greater the risk the camera will choose to lock onto something other than the point you want (eg the background or close by detail). However in situations where the subject is moving about (eg birds in flight, sports) having more focus points increases your chance of keeping the focus locked on. |
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blackfox
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got to agree with you re-more focus points allowing for error Eric , there are many multi point modes on my current olympus body but I tend to find for a cluttered background just using either of the two single points is best (two sizes of points ) for birds in flight I tend to use cluster focus (all points) if the sky /background is clear .im pretty sure from memory that this will apply to the nikon A/F system to |
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| A small amount of member data is captured and held in an attempt to reduce spammers and to manage users. This site also uses cookies to ensure ease of use. In order to comply with new DPR regulations you are required to agree/disagree with this process. If you do not agree then please email the Admins using info@nikondsl.uk Thank you. |